Headed North Six months after leaving Khartoum for Nairobi, I find myself back in the Sudanese capital, for I’m-not-sure-what. When I left Khartoum the first time, in August 2010, landing in Nairobi seemed like being back in the developed world again. Now, leaving Juba in February 2011, landing in Khartoum seems like being “back” in the developed world. It’s funny how frames of reference shift. The place has changed a lot since I left. Buildings have been razed. Roads have been paved. The holes and ditches that used to litter the road in front of the AFP bureau, for example, have now disappeared under a smooth layer of asphalt, and wide pavements now line the road. But friends are still here, and it feels good to be back. Now to find the stories. And battle with the bureaucracy that will let me tell them.

Headed North

Six months after leaving Khartoum for Nairobi, I find myself back in the Sudanese capital, for I’m-not-sure-what.

When I left Khartoum the first time, in August 2010, landing in Nairobi seemed like being back in the developed world again.

Now, leaving Juba in February 2011, landing in Khartoum seems like being “back” in the developed world.

It’s funny how frames of reference shift.

The place has changed a lot since I left. Buildings have been razed. Roads have been paved. The holes and ditches that used to litter the road in front of the AFP bureau, for example, have now disappeared under a smooth layer of asphalt, and wide pavements now line the road.

But friends are still here, and it feels good to be back.

Now to find the stories. And battle with the bureaucracy that will let me tell them.