Les épices du souk du Caire

Khan al-Khalili is the district of Cairo where guide-books send their followers to experience “Islamic Cairo” and its traditional souqs. Having spent the day walking around somewhere south of this district, the first time I crossed it, I did so by accident. The dusty, dirt streets were replaced by cobbled, paved roads; the bustle of the alleys replaced with hassle in the street; neat pyramids of colourful spices replaced pyramids of garlic. In the streets of Khan al-Khalili that are traced on a Lonely Planet map, the diversity of the real souq is lost to shiny models of camels & the pyramids, and ornate shishas, packaged ready to withstand the flight back to Europe.

Propositions of “yes sir, just looking!” replaced the calls for “kilo et-tamaatem, noos guinea!” (a kilo of tomatoes for half a pound); jewellery was proffered on the fingers of well-heeled men, whereas before young boys carried freshly baked bread on their heads. The khawaaga here is a walking wallet; half an hour previously it was just regarded with a slight intrigue.

As coaches bused in the tourists to see the “souq”, I felt less comfortable here than having been shoved around in the hubbub of the more populaire market nearer to the Atbara bus station. I’ve obviously spent too long in this region. But whilst I feel it’s a shame that all these people would have such a warped view of Cairo, returning home with stories of the “exoticism” of it all, I can’t help but savour the delight of seemingly having the rest of the place to myself.

Madeenet el alf Midhana

Or, “the city of a thousand minarets”.

The presence of Islam in Egyptian life is rising; the veil is increasingly prevalent, large numbers of men bear a scar on their forehead from kneeling to the ground during prayer and the language is filled with phrases regarding God. Ma’shala, hamdu lillah and insh’allah are found in every exchange.

The profusion of mosques in Cairo is astounding, and much of my time here was spent under the shadow of their domes. At times reflecting on the religion that binds these people together and has such a great influence in their life; at times appreciating the intricate Arabic calligraphy; at times simply savouring their peacefulness, and the cool air in their shaded alcoves. The breeze on the minaret high above the mosque of Ibn Tulun provided welcome respite from the Cairo heat, affording a stunning view high over the city.

I also met many Muslims who were keen to explain their faith, and to answer any questions I may have. A very interesting evening was spent talking with Mohammed as he explained how integral his religion was in his daily life. Subjects ranged from the “banning” of music in the culture, and how he doesn’t feel that technology doesn’t at all tempt him away, or prevent him from being, a good Muslim. He also discussed the responsibilities of women in Islam, and how in the West we tend to malign the “constraints” “imposed” upon Muslim women, and how these responsibilities also extend to men.

Another evening, I was approached in a restaurant by a twenty year-old Muslim who was keen to issue me with several booklets (in English) explaining his faith, and attempting to break certain stereotypes. Again, a booklet discussing Women in Islam caught my eye; it attempted to justify many facets of Muslim women’s lives, particularly by comparing to the teaching of Christianity and Judaism on the subject. Yet reading it, a very selective view was taken on certain aspects, picking and choosing the best sura from the Qu’ran, comparing it to the worst the Torah & Bible have to offer. Rather than exonerating Islam from any charge of repressing women, it seemed to want to drag-down Christianity & Judaism along with it.

As he brought over a plate of sweet, milky dessert, and insisted on paying for my koshary, a cynic would take it as a bribe; but within this culture there is a great sense of hospitality towards the guest, and this was simply exemplary of the warmth and welcoming the people of the Middle East can be towards foreigners. We were a long way from the touts of downtown.

Art in Cairo

Throughout this trip I have been trying to search-out the local art scene in the countries I pass through - the galleries & exhibitions of Paris are high on the list of the (few) things I miss from back home. Cairo seemed likely to be a good candidate for a representative of contemporary Middle Eastern & Egyptian art, but searching for galleries here garnered few results.

Townhouse Gallery is one of the most well-known of Cairo’s galleries, and was hosting a small exhibition exploring masculinity—Making a Man Out of Him—by female artist Huda Lutfi. And upstairs, the relatively well-stocked library (photo) provided a pleasant space to while away a couple of hours; burying myself in books and journals I began to question all that I had left behind.

The Stammer exhibition at the Darb centre was rather disappointing. Some work felt “unfinished” as one friend put it; others just seemed incoherent or a blind imitation of works I had seen several years ago in Europe. The view over Coptic Cairo from the roof terrace, however, made up for the mediocre multimedia downstairs.

One of my favourite exhibitions was found whilst walking around Zamalek one afternoon. I stumbled across the Safar Khan gallery where an exhibition by Marwa Adel mixed photography with Arabic calligraphy and other patterns & textures, creating canvases that tended towards graphic design. The work wasn’t incredibly innovative, but it was well executed, and the mix of aesthetic photographs & my current penchant for Arabic meant that I was rather enamoured by her work.

More Art in Cairo

Other places to check-out are Mashrabia Gallery, Culture Wheel, and of course, the usual places such as the Centre Culturel Français & the Goethe-Institut.

Visa n° 402

I knew all along that this trip would take me through the Republic of the Sudan. It was the only viable way south from the Middle East to Ethiopia and onto Kenya, and I had timed my arrival in Egypt to allow me obtain my visa before the country’s first multi-party elections since 1986.

Applying in the UK can be a lengthy (two-month) process, often ending in refusal, or so I had heard. In Cairo, once the hoops of bureaucracy had been jumped-through, a visa can be issued in twenty-four hours.

Yet it wasn’t until I walked out of the embassy, clutching my passport with a crude, hand-written visa inside, that it dawned on me (with a flutter of adrenaline) that I would actually be traveling through Sudan.

Visa number four hundred and two. They don’t issue many of these things.

(And many thanks to the British embassy for the fleecing. The Sudanese demand a “letter of recommendation” as part of their bureaucratic application; the British don’t issue such letters, but for £30 they will supply a photocopy of a letter stating that they don’t issue letters. Thirty pounds. For a photocopy.)

Cairo Transport: Taxis

The meters in the old, black cabs of Cairo are obsolete. Calibrated in a time before a sharp rise in petrol prices, they are just ornaments for the vehicle, and somewhat of a design icon for people like me.

At first, as a foreigner, haggling is a necessity before opening the door; we have an inherent fear of taxi-drivers the world-over. But as one gets to know the place, and more importantly the prices, it is possible to adopt the Egyptian method: name the destination & get-in. Knowledge of the fare is implicit, and upon reaching the final-point, handing over the correct sum with a shukran, and a ma salama is all that is required. Talking money is a nasty business.